“That’s a policeman,” the activist said quietly. Stepping closer, I saw a gun on his belt. As we neared, preparing to say hello, I noticed the man was wearing a jaunty cap, and a uniform. Twenty-five million people live in the Indian capital - it’s the world’s second-largest city - but all I could hear were our footsteps, illuminated by the light on my iPhone, and my overactive breath. We spotted another, ambling through a path about 40 feet away from us. The activist pointed out one man and we walked behind him stealthily, but he disappeared into the darkness. On a Sunday night in mid-December, I visited Nehru Park with a gay rights activist he agreed to accompany me but asked to remain nameless, in part because homosexuality is illegal in India. NEW DELHI - Observing gay cruising in India felt like high-stakes bird-watching - the fluttering of something delicate and intense. If he knew what we were doing there, he chose to ignore it.
If someone catches your eye and smiles, walk up and say hello. Stroll, keeping your head up, and make eye contact with men who walk by. “If you are a novice and looking to meet other men, this is the place you should start with.” The technique, the activist told me, was simple. “On Sunday evenings, the gardens are rocking with over a hundred men hanging around, waiting, looking and just checking out the scene,” claimed an undated post on the site. The travel website Cruising Gays called the park, which is named after India’s first prime minister, the “grand dame” of New Delhi’s cruising places. The 85-acre park, in a wealthy area of the capital that hosts most of its embassies, was poorly lit, rambling, and quiet.
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